My Experience Of Hiking Planinica: One Of Durmitor’s Most Beautiful Peaks

If you’ve never heard of Montenegro, this is your sign to add it to your bucket list, my friends! Because this country boasts not only a rich historical heritage and great food, but also stunning hiking trails, and all at a lower cost than some of its neighboring countries. Want to see and experience one of the most beautiful hikes in Montenegro? Here’s my guide to the wonderful Planinica!

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Planinica in a few words

Located in the breathtaking Durmitor National Park, in the town of Zabljak, Planinica isn’t necessarily the most famous hike, with people often giving priority to Bobotov Kuk peak or one of the 25 marked trails available in the park.

But that doesn’t mean Planinica shouldn’t be on your itinerary, as the landscapes you’ll encounter along the way, the trails winding through mysterious dark forests and valleys make it one of the most breathtaking hikes I’ve done in this part of the Balkans.

So if you’re not afraid of its 2330m and a long hiking day, let me guide you through the wonderful hike to the top of Planinica!

The trail to the peak

You have two choices: you can go through the park and pay the entrance fee of 5 euros ($5.5) or you can do as I did, choose not to pay and take the road up to the right before the ticket booth.

A great way to save money and have the trail to yourself.

Mountain views

The first part of the hike is straightforward as you’ll just have to follow a paved road, which will take you through housings, some of which are under construction. A local told me that many people were starting to build guesthouses in the region, largely due to the national park’s growing popularity in recent years.

As there are very few signs indicating the direction of the hike, you’ll have to resort to the next best thing: the sign you can see on one of the photos above (a white dot circled in red), which you’ll often see on rocks during your hike.

After about 30-40 minutes, you’ll finally get to the second part of the hike, which I’d rather call the beginning: the forest!

Forest and valley

This is where you have to be very careful and follow the little white dot circled in red or you’ll get lost in the deep forest.

I’m sorry, you won’t get photos of the forest because most of the time I was trying to catch my breath and not fall on the slippery rocks that lined, at one point, the uphill trail.

Entering the dark forest, where no one else was there beside me, was kind of creepy but also relaxing, if both are possible and can even cohabit together.

Varying between a straight, stony road where you might encounter a car or two, indicating that you’re not actually the only living soul around, you’ll eventually find yourself on the part that all hikers love (or not) the start of the incline.

You might meet a dog along the way. I think he’s a bit of an unofficial guide here, as he knew the trail better than I did and even followed me almost all the way to the peak (at least I wasn’t as lonely as I’d thought).

Anyway, after a few slides and quick breaks for snacks and water, I emerged from the dark forest onto the magical valley, Donja Ališnica, a real breath of fresh air and a nice break from the dense forest, if you ask me.

Take a few minutes to admire the lush alpine meadows before heading for the “climbing part of the hike”.

Rocks and the valley to the peak

If you thought the worst of the hike to Planinica was over, it really isn’t, as this is where you’ll have to use your hands a little and make your way across the sharp rocks. Although it’s a bit tiring, it’s also where you’ll get a great vantage point on the mountains around you.

After the climb, I’d say the longest part is actually around the corner, namely, the windy, endless Gornja Ališnica valley stretching out in front of you.

I have to admit that the conditions weren’t probably the best when I hiked Planinica, as the weather was a bit capricious: cloudy, rainy and windy (especially during the last part of the hike). I’ll just say that I was glad I’d packed a windbreaker, scarf and rain jacket, as even though it was late September, the climate was really different here than in southern Montenegro, but then again, that’s what you can expect in the mountains, where the weather changes pretty quickly.

So, yes, the valley, once you’re there, is the beginning of the end, or so you think at first, because there’s still an hour, hour and a half to go to the top. And altough not difficult, the interminable valley can seem rather daunting, as you never seem to see the end of it.

After making your way through the valley, following the serpentine, carefully marked trail and passing some beautiful wild horses, you finally reach the last stretch of the hike and the peak (~40mn).

Planinica summit

Because hikes without a little twist at the end aren’t fun, the hike to the Planinica summit is actually more of a crawl.

Once you finally reach what looks like the top of the mountain, you’ll see a little arrow and the famous white dot circled in red on a rock, leading you to some bushes.

I don’t know if there was ever a real path, but now you have to walk on all fours through the bushes (watch your face and clothes) to reach the vast, flat, grassy expanse that forms the summit of Planinica.

You’ve made it! Peaks, breathtaking views and a panorama of Big and Small Lake await you!

As conditions were becoming difficult and I was close to losing my phone in the wind and pouring rain, I didn’t have time to take a nice shot of the lakes, but let me give you a glimpse of what you can expect on a sunny day.

A worthwile reward, don’t you think?

Hiking tips for Planinica

1. Check the weather forecast

The weather can be quite fickle in the mountains, so always remember to check in advance whether conditions are ideal, or at least safe, for your hike. And as soon as they deteriorate, start your descent! Hiking in a storm is reckless and dangerous…

2. Pack some food, water and warmer clothes

Whatever the length of your hike, don’t forget to pack some snacks such as protein bars, and warmer clothing (the peak can be quite windy). It’s better to be prepared than sorry!

And don’t forget your first-aid kit!

3. Bring sunscreen

Whether it’s cloudy or not, applying sunscreen is the best way to avoid getting sunburned and tossing and turning all night, looking for the position that doesn’t hurt. As the hike to Planinica is made up of valleys and many open spaces, the risk of sunburn is even higher, so don’t forget to pack your sunscreen in your bag and reapply it often.

You can also wear a cap or a hat to avoid the blinding rays of the sun!

4. Wear good hiking shoes

A great way to avoid blisters and injuries but also to fully enjoy your hike!

You can also opt for hiking poles, useful for slippery grounds and for better balance.

5. Bring a power bank

Getting lost and not being able to contact emergency services is one of the worst things (with injury) that can happen to you during a hike. So charge your phone before you go hiking, and invest in a power bank that will probably save you more than once when you’re exploring new places abroad.

Another essential item for me is a safety whistle, should you ever find yourself in danger, this is the item to have when hiking!

Click here to discover the other safety items I recommend as a solo traveling woman!

6. Respect nature and wildlife

Isn’t this the most important tip everyone should follow? Respect the nature, the wildlife and the regulations when hiking, so that the people who come after you can also enjoy the beauty of the place. Sharing is caring!

How to get to Zabljak and Planinica

From Podgorica (the capital), you can go to the bus station and buy a ticket to Zabljak (~$11).

There are a few buses a day (05:45, 10:00, 13:00, 14:38, 15:38 and 17:05) and the journey will only take you about two and a half hours.

The best way to check the timetable is to visit this website: busticket4.me. You can also book your ticket there, but bear in mind that you’ll have to print your own ticket and pay a platform fee (which you often have to pay anyway when you buy your ticket at the ticket booth).

From Zabljak bus station, Durmitor National Park and the trails are only a 35-minute walk away.

For more information on the national park and trails, you can consult the official website.

Where to stay in Zabljak

If you want to be close to the bus station and supermarket, but also want a relaxing, comfortable stay, where you’ll feel right at home thanks to the adorable, attentive owner, I recommend Sobe KALJEVIC!

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does the hike to the top of Planinica take?

It took me about 8 hours round trip, but it can take up to 10 hours depending on the weather and your physical condition.

It’s best to start this hike at around 8-9a.m., so as to have plenty of time to admire the scenery without rushing, and to get back in time before dark.

How difficult is the hike to the top of Planinica?

I’d say it’s moderate to difficult, the most important factor being the length of the hike. If you take your time and are careful on the rocky paths, you’ll be fine!

What should I do if I encounter wildlife on the trail?

Don’t panic and don’t approach wild animals! Also, avoid going off the trail, which is the best way to come face to face with an angry bear! Oh, and never run away if you do meet one, but follow these tips!

I say bears, because Durmitor National Park is actually home to a wide variety of wildlife, so it’s best to be prepared.

Are there any other activities around Durmitor National Park?

There are actually a few, including rafting on the Tara River, ATV tours and even zip-lining. Quite a thrilling place and an adventurer’s paradise, if you ask me.

So, what do you think? Are you ready to be amazed by the wonderful scenery of one of the best hikes in Durmitor National Park and get some exercise at the same time? Planinica is for you, then!

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