A Day In Shifen: Breathtaking Nature And Nostalgic Charm

If you decide to stay in Taipei for a few days or more to explore Taiwan, then you should know that there are also a number of day trips you can take from the capital (see my article on my favorites here).

Shifen is a good example, as a trip there will allow you to forget about the big cities’ pollution and agitation and enjoy a pleasant day amidst nature and history.

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Shifen in a few words

When you hear about Shifen and see how colorful and lively the town is, you’d never imagine that its past wasn’t always so rosy. Shifen, which means “ten portions” in reference to the ten families who originally lived there and requested ten portions of supplies, has another history that is sometimes unknown to visitors.

Because behind the restless and popular railroad tracks lies a darker past: one where Shifen was once a mining town, and where the railroad was built to transport coal and workers during the Japanese occupation.

And although you might think that such a past would be visible when wandering around the town, truth is, it’s surprisingly not the case, and what’s left of it are basically the tracks that run through the town.

But what surprised me even more was seeing how a “dark history” such as this has now been transformed into a popular attraction that locals and foreigners alike enjoy visiting. I don’t really know if this is a way of not dwelling on the past or simply of giving the town a more positive image, but I’d say that the initiative is quite successful given the fame the town has acquired.

Highlights of Shifen

1. The train ride

Yes, I know it’s not technically in Shifen itself, but I felt like the train ride was worth mentioning because, in reality, that’s where all the fun of the journey begins.

Between the green and lush landscapes, the dark tunnels that lead into forests and almost make you feel like you’re traveling to another dimension, and the creaking sound of the old train rolling slowly along the tracks, the ride to the town is the ideal moment to take in all the beauty outside while calming your mind inside.

2. The Old Street

This is where your adventure and exploration of the world of Shifen truly starts.

Stroll through the street lined with culinary specialties, souvenirs and sights. Open up all your senses and lose yourself (although you won’t, since the streets that border the railway station are fairly small) as you discover the charm of the town.

Watch out for the trains that regularly pass through the town, and, if you feel like it, take part in one of the most popular activities: releasing sky lanterns.

3. Make a wish and release a lantern

Nowadays, people release lanterns into the sky to send their wishes to the gods, hoping that they will grant them and bring them luck, good fortune…

But the origin of these lanterns actually dates back to the 19th century, a time where bandits were numerous. To signal to others that it was safe to go into town, locals who went to town for provisions would send them into the sky.

What started as a signal quickly became a tradition, and even an annual festival in the towns of Shifen and Pingxi: Sky Lantern Festival, where you can see thousands of lanterns lighting up the sky, like a parade of small colored lights carrying the wishes of people from all over Taiwan and often the whole world.

You will find many shops selling them in Shifen. They usually cost NT$200 and they come in various colors (red being the most popular), each representing something such as health, career, success… You can also buy multicolored lanterns, such as 4-color ones: NT$250 or 8-color ones: NT$350!

Releasing a sky lantern is definitely a nice, memorable and fun experience, but if you care about the environment, you may want to think twice, as the lanterns often end up in the grass, trees, on the streets…, polluting the environment.

Or you can opt to buy an eco-friendly lantern here (see map below). They’re slightly more expensive (NT$450), but they burn completely, leaving no trace in nature.

4. Waterfalls

Now, if you know a little bit about me, you know that I’m not really a fan of crowded attractions, which is why, to be completely honest, what mainly attracted me to Shifen was its sumptuous waterfall, also nicknamed “The Little Niagara of Taiwan”.

Before you get there, you’ll cross a few suspension bridges, see smaller waterfalls and get away from all the agitation of the Old Street to find yourself in peaceful, lush nature.

Several trails lead to Shifen Waterfall, not to mention the many viewing platforms from which you can watch up close the power of the waters roaring beneath your feet, or, from further away, the majesty and beauty of the waterfall and its surroundings.

One thing’s for sure, though: coming here was the best decision, as you feel a world away from all the people taking pictures in the middle of the railroad tracks and the busy food stalls that line the street.

Here, everyone is invited to take a break and admire the strength of the waterfall where, dare I say, everyone felt humble in front of it, not articulating a word for several minutes, simply enjoying the moment.

In conclusion: a nice respite from the brouhaha of the town.

5. The food

There’s actually plenty of food options in Shifen, but I’m going to stick to the three that were recommended to me by a Taiwanese man I met on the train:

• Peanut ice cream roll: if, like me, you like anything with peanuts in it, then this one’s for you! It’s basically a thin crepe filled with a few scoops of ice cream and shaved peanut brittle. It’s probably a staple here and the ideal snack when it’s really hot outside.
  
  
• Anything fried: whether it’s deep-fried squid, crab or shrimp, you can’t really go wrong with this snack, provided, of course, that you like seafood or aren’t allergic to it.
  
  
• Stinky tofu: it was more of a joke when my new friend asked me if I had ever tried stinky tofu and I told him that it wasn’t for me. He assured me that Taiwanese people weren’t necessarily fans either, but that it was more a matter of taste. Kind of you like it or you don’t, in my opinion.
  But it still made this list anyway, because you have to make your own opinion, and even though the smell can be quite strong, the taste is often quite mild.

How to get to Shifen

From Taipei Main station, you’ll need to take two local trains (don’t take the train bound for Puyouma or the Tze-Chiang Limited Express, as you’ll not be able to use your EasyCard) but take the first train towards Su Ao and get off at Ruifang (~45mn). You’ll then need to take a second local train to Shifen (30mn).

You can also combine two MRTS and a bus, but taking the local train is usually faster and easier.

And if you decide to cycle around Taiwan, it will take you about two and a half hours from Taipei.

FAQ

Is the entrance to the waterfall free?

Yes, you don’t need to pay for the waterfall, but it’s open daily from 09:00-17:30. A small thing to keep in mind when planning your visit!

How long does a visit to Shifen and its waterfall usually take?

I’d say no more than two hours (three if you try all the food) around the Old Street, and the trail to the waterfall will take you no more than 20 minutes. Of course, I recommend staying as long as you like around the waterfall.

You’ll even find snacks and drinks there if your energy has been depleted by the walk to the waterfall.

Is there anything else to do near Shifen?

If you want to escape the crowds, you can get off at Jingtong station. You’ll have a similar experience, but with generally far fewer people.

And if you’re a cat lover, you can always stop at Houtong Cat Village, famous for having more cats than humans.

People also like to combine their visit with a trip to Jiufen (one hour from Shifen).

A trip to Shifen is a bit like taking the train to another time: one filled with bustling food stalls, magic lanterns, but also people going about their daily routine while observing their once quiet town now full of life and reminiscing about what happened in a not so distant past. But Shifen is more than just its Old Street, it’s also a place where you can spend a beautiful day surrounded by Taiwan’s largest waterfall.

Want more day trip ideas from Taipei? Here are 5!