Onomichi: A Quaint Town Combining Nostalgia And Seaside Charm

Big cities are nice and all, but what I really love when I travel is discovering and exploring quaint small towns, ideal for slowing down and recharging your batteries. And that’s exactly what I found in Onomichi: serenity, historic sites and jaw-dropping scenery.

Tempted to see something different and breathe in the sea air? Here’s my travel guide to Onomichi!

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Onomichi in a few words

Located in Japan, more specifically in Hiroshima Prefecture, you may never have heard of Onomichi, and yet, the town has appeared in many movies and even in an anime series: Kamichu!

The port town, characterized by its narrow alleys, numerous temples, and a famous cycling route even considered as one of the most beautiful in Japan, is sure to charm you too.

Whether you have a day or more, I’d say Onomichi definitely deserves a spot on your itinerary, if only to slow down and see a more peaceful and rural side of Japan.

Things to do in Onomichi

1. Temple walk

Spanning over 2.5 kilometers and taking you through 25 temples, the popular temple walk is one Onomichi’s highlights, and for good reason as you’ll get to learn more about the region’s history while admiring intricate details and splendid architecture in a tranquil atmosphere.

Wander through the narrow streets and “gentle” slopes and let yourself be carried away by the walk, taking breaks when needed and spending as much time as you like in any particular temple.

But be careful though, as getting lost in the small alleys is easier than you think. The best way to avoid this is to take a photo of the map located at the entrance of the temple walk path: to the left of the Onomichi Hondori Shopping Arcade, just after crossing the train tracks.

Or you can also go with the flow, getting lost as you climb the slopes until you stumble upon the next stone marker indicating the way to the next temple.

Whatever you choose, my best advice is to take your time and spend as much time as you like exploring the temples and the picturesque town.

2. Panoramic views of Onomichi

If you want to admire Onomichi and its neighboring islands from above, then there’s no better place than Senkoji Peak Observatory.

Accessible by climbing to the top of the mountain while doing the temple walk (quite the steep slope, but doable as long as you take your time) or by taking the mountain ropeway (¥500 one way or ¥700 round trip), Senkoji Temple and its Park are probably where you’ll see the most people, but then again, when you see the view, it won’t come as a surprise.

Senkoji Temple, unique for its ancient history, scenic views, and bell that can apparently be heard from pretty far away, is Onomichi’s most famous landmark, attracting visitors from all over the country and beyond.

3. Onomichi Boardwalk

Tired after all that walking? Head to the boardwalk right across the train station, sit down on one of the benches there, and watch the boats glide across the water as the sun sets behind the buildings, reflecting its orange hues on the Seto Inland Sea.

And if you’re up for a day trip to one of the islands, this is also where you’ll find the ferry terminal.

The perfect way to end the day before satisfying your rumbling stomach at one of the nearby restaurants.

4. Shimanami Kaido

I didn’t do it myself, as the two days I spent in Onomichi flew by and I didn’t have the opportunity to do Shimanami Kaido aka the cycling route I mentioned in my introduction. But if I ever get the chance to visit this town again, it’s something I’d really like to experience.

Especially since you don’t have to be a professional cyclist to enjoy the ride, as the road is fairly easy and can be completed in a day.

This 70 km-long cycling route, which connects the islands of Honshu and Shikoku, is the ideal activity for those who want to enjoy the rural sights of Japan while sampling its renowned seafood or a refreshing ice cream. But keep in mind that the road isn’t shaded, so if you plan to cycle it, come prepared with plenty of water and a hat, especially in summer.

5. Day trip to Okayama

The good thing about visiting Onomichi, besides its quiet seaside charm? The fact that you can go on lots of day trips! You can go to Mihara, Tomonoura, or choose Okayama, as I did.

More or less a last-minute day trip for me, and even though I got to only visit the city and see Okayama Korakuen and its Castle, that day made me want to learn more about this city and include it again in a future itinerary.

The garden is famous for being one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan, and truth is, it’s truly sumptuous and so quiet you actually forget you’re in the city.

As for the castle, the exhibitions are interesting, informative and filled with beautiful artifacts. Plus, you can enjoy the museum even if you don’t speak Japanese, thanks to QR codes that allow you to see explanations in English, Korean, and Chinese.

Okayama Korakuen (Garden): ¥500, Okayama Castle: ¥400, Combined ticket: ¥720.

Where to eat

Onomichi ramen is kind of the local specialty, so you’ll have no trouble finding plenty of restaurants selling it.

If you’re looking for a nice address though, here’s my recommendation:（有）大丸 日本料理場!

The staff are friendly, the portions are generous (at least in my opinion), their ramen is delicious, as is their fried chicken, and the prices are reasonable.

Plus, you can actually order your dishes in English thanks to the tablet provided.

Where to stay

If you’re on a budget but still want comfort, cleanliness, and an ideal location, then Station Inn the Urashima, right next to the train station, is a good choice for you.

The sleeping pods are quite large and comfy, you get a locker, and everything is spotlessly clean, from the bathroom to the toilets to the common areas.

There are also separate dormitories for men and women!

It’s quiet, but its biggest advantage is undoubtedly its location, as you only have to walk a minute to get to your accommodation. No long journeys or fear of missing your train either!

How to get to Onomichi

To get to Onomichi, you’ll need to take the Shinkansen to Fukuyama, then transfer to a local train to Onomichi.

If you’re already in Hiroshima Prefecture, you’ll of course only need to take a local train!

Several Shinkansen trains run to Fukuyama every day, so you don’t usually need to book in advance, but if you’re visiting during peak season, it’s always a good idea to do so, especially for your peace of mind.

Attracted by seaside towns and want to get away from the major attractions and crowds? Why not visit Onomichi and enjoy a few days of respite and tranquility in a more rural part of Japan?

Still want to visit a big city, but one that’s underrated and where you won’t feel suffocated by millions of people? Here’s a 3-day itinerary in the lovely city of Fukuoka!